Oriental perfume : Which one is right for me?
Oriental fragrance is often referred to as ‘amber’ perfume now, as many people consider this to be more politically correct. However, amber is just one of the notes in a typical oriental perfume and does not explain the full range of possibilities of this fragrance type.
First of all what are oriental perfumes?
Traditional oriental perfumes have always been oil based attars, as they do not contain alcohol or water. The ‘oriental’ classification describes perfumes with a range of ingredients which are warm, sensual and exotic. According to leading perfume website fragrantica the typical ingredients in an oriental perfume are:
Vanilla and musk
Musk gives a comforting, sensual touch to any fragrance, but vanilla adds creaminess and sweetness. Vanilla anchors fragrance compositions and helps other notes to last longer.
Resins
Frankincense, Myrrh and Labdanum add smoky citrus, medicinal bitterness and leathery amber notes. There are large plantations of frankincense trees in Oman and other areas of the Middle East.
Spices
Cardamon, cinnamon, cloves and saffron spices make frequent appearances in oriental compositions, as these were traditionally available. These can add sweet, bitter, leathery or piquant notes to any fragrance.
Florals
Rose, Jasmine and Orange Blossom are traditional floral ingredients in oriental perfumery. There are various types of rose, but damask rose and taif rose are the most popular in oriental perfumery. Jasmine.
Woods
Oud (agarwood), sandalwood and cedarwood are popular woody notes in oriental fragrances. Oud notes can vary a lot depending on the provenance of the oils, as they can be animalic, sweet or leathery.
Why are Oriental perfumes becoming popular now?
The world is getting smaller and people are discovering more about oriental perfumes for the past ten years or so. Social media has enabled small Middle Eastern perfume brands to make a name for themselves, thus gaining more widespread distribution worldwide.
Which type of oriental perfume should I buy?
Traditional orientals
Traditional oriental perfumes are very heavy and extremely potent, this can feel suffocating, as they are not diluted. If a person is unaccustomed to rich, heavy perfume, then a traditional oriental composition can feel too strong, except in small doses. Nations from the Middle East, India, Pakistan and some Asian countries are accustomed to the traditional oriental perfume notes. These notes are embedded within their culture, as they have been a part of daily life and religious rites for centuries.
Modern orientals
Nowadays oriental perfumes are no longer just heavy, resinous perfumes, as they now allow greater wearability and flexibility. Many middle eastern brands have managed to widen their appeal by modernising formulations and creating a more fusion oriental approach. At the same time, traditional Western perfumery has put oriental ingredients into the international spotlight, for example by launching many ‘oud’ perfumes.
Western perfumery traditionally prefers more citrus notes, light florals, in addition to light musks and woods. For this reason, many oriental perfumes now add citrus or fruity top notes and use synthetic oud instead of animalic natural oud. Modern orientals manage to preserve the soul of oriental perfumery, yet open the genre to a wider audience.
If you are wondering which type of oriental you might prefer, then consider some famous oriental perfumes which have found celebrity status:
Oriental florals
Shalimar and Narciso Rodriguez for Her are examples of floral orientals. Both of these fragrances balance warmth with soft, approachable femininity.
Oriental spicy
This type of perfume is warm, bold and fiery and appeals to those who like dramatic perfumes. Notable examples are Opium by YSL and Amouage Jubilation XXV.
Oriental Woody
Oriental woody perfumes use ingredients such as oud, sandalwood, cedar and patchouli to create a deep and smoky base. Popular oriental woody fragrances are Francis Kurkdjian’s Oud Satin Mood which combines rose and vanilla with oud. Also Tom Ford Oud Wood is a very popular smooth, refined oud fragrance.
Oriental Gourmand
Recently many brands have launched oriental gourmand creations. Oriental gourmand perfumes combine edible notes like vanilla, chocolate, caramel, nuts honey or coffee with oriental notes. They are more playful and often appeal to a younger audience. Thierry Mugler launched the first noteworthy oriental gourmand and achieved mass appeal with his Angel perfume. Black Opium combines coffee, vanilla and white floral notes to appeal to a wider perfume audience.
Fresh Orientals
Fresh orientals often layer oud and woods with citrus, aquatic or ozonic top notes, which makes fragrances more wearable. Prada Amber pour homme is resinous, but fresh, whereas Hermes Elixir des Merveilles is amber with a citrus sparkle.
Oriental Perfumes from the House of the Scent of Dunes
Aromatic Wood - a fresh oriental
This fresh woody oriental combines bergamot with basil, lavender and neroli. A commanding performance from an accomplished player – warm sensual wood with fresh bergamot. Long lasting sensuality and confidence for a sophisticated man.
Amour Eternel - a fruity gourmand oriental
This fragrance fuses tart rhubarb with sweet honey, rose and praline. Smoky oud and earthy patchouli blend with vanilla softness to create a long lasting romantic story. A truly modern fruity oriental with multi faceted layers, an enduring earthy gourmand oriental experience.
So, which type of oriental fragrance is right for YOU? Consider the types we have mentioned above and whether you want a fresher or more potent type of fragrance. Do you love sweeter notes like vanilla and musk or spicy and fresh notes? Research the fragrances which have the types of notes you prefer, then try some out on your skin and see how they make you feel. Fragrance selection is very personal and you should buy according to how a fragrance makes you feel, not according to what is currently trending on tiktok.
We hope you enjoyed this short overview on oriental fragrance and would love to hear your comments and points of view. If you enjoyed learning about oriental perfume, would you also like to learn about Citrus fragrance? Or maybe to find out about fragrance types? We would love for you to continue your fragrance learning adventure on our site.